Welcome to the blog that chronicles my wanderings through the world of museums, heritage sites and visitor attractions since the beginning of 2008!

You can view the museums that I have been to via the Google map on the right.


Sunday, 25 January 2015

#185 - Distance



An article based around Inverness Museum and Art Gallery (#185)



 In 2013, my sister and I decided to reach new heights personal fitness by entering that year’s Loch Ness festival of running. My sister, who had participated in amateur triathlons and 10Ks, decided to really go for it and run in the Loch Ness Marathon as her first marathon attempt. As for me, a lapsed rower who rarely did anything more energetic than badminton at that time, I signed up for a 5K. And to get into any physical state to be ready for it, I undertook months of training to build up my stamina – if that appeals, incidentally, I would recommend the “Couch to 5k” programme which the NHS provide.


We were not just doing this for fitness, however. The previous year had been a difficult one for the family as my mother had undergone extensive chemotherapy in her fight against lymphoma. Thankfully she is much better some 3 years later, but that’s partially due to the support she received from healthcare professionals and cancer support charities. So, as a thank you, Macmillan Cancer Support was the recipient of our combined fundraising. It would be fair to say that people were putting in more for the efforts of a first time marathon than a first time 5K, but every little helps!

I had a further ulterior motive: I wanted to go to Inverness. The Loch Ness festival of running had been chosen on the basis that, by late September, we would have enough time to train for our respective runs. Heck, I would have done it was the Milton Keynes festival of running or the Sheffield festival of running, on the basis that I still wanted to give something back to Macmillan. But I am always keen to seek out new parts of the world, particularly if they’re on mainland Britain.

I’ve been to Scotland a few times over the course of my life, and living in Newcastle makes it comparatively easier to visit than if I were living in London. But the furthest north I’d ventured up until that week was Dundee. To travel as far as Inverness required me to set aside some annual leave if I was going to spend more than a flying visit there. Anything else would be a waste, because the northernmost city in the British Isles is not a place you can simply pop across to if you live in England.

I have often complained that the key downside of living in Newcastle is its geographical distance from the rest of England, and whilst this is true in many respects, my trip to the Highlands gave that view some much-needed perspective! To get to Inverness from Tyneside, I took 3 trains for a trip which lasted a good 5-6 hours (accounting for changing trains). It was more straightforward for my sister to simply fly there from London. Other than the fact I was going there primarily for a charitable cause, it dawned on me that I was making a lot of effort to simply to satiate my curiosity about the Highlands of Scotland.

The logistics of travel is often a key barrier between people and visiting museums, visitor attractions or heritage sites. If you don’t have access to a car, then suddenly the number of National Trust or English Heritage sites available to you becomes somewhat limited. Schools cite transport costs as the main hindrance to offering its pupils regular school trips. And whilst London is the de facto cultural hub of the UK, not everyone has the means to make regular trips to the most expensive city in the country.

So with all that in mind, Inverness was the main nexus point for my week in the Highlands, which started with a 5km jog alongside children and overweight people (such as myself, I’ll admit!) before moving up to Wick and Thurso before my return to the city. My sister had long gone home by this point, hoping her body would recover on her overnight train back to London. So having spent the first part of the week back-packing around John O’Groats country, I was getting a second bite at exploring Inverness before I continued on down the west coast of Scotland. This allowed me to add Inverness Museum and Art Gallery (#185) to my journals.

The museum is part of a curious building near a main bridge over the river Ness. Already situated on top of a street level tier of shops and eateries, the next level up is the city’s Tourist Information centre. The museum itself is located on the next two tiers, with its own separate entrance via the road which leads up the hill to the back of the building. Incidentally, the top of the hill boasts Inverness Castle, although this is used primarily as a court building rather than a tourist attraction.

Entering the “ground floor” as it were, the museum’s displays focus upon the various eras of the city’s history, and by extension, the highland region as a whole. Having previous visited the Tain and District Museum (#182), Wick Heritage Centre (#183) and Caithness Horizons in Thurso (#184) in as many days, I had already taken in a great deal of regional history, so a look at the development of Inverness as the administrative centre made for a refreshing change. The members of staff at the entrance were welcoming and very accommodating to look after my heavy rucksack whilst I undertook my visit.

The focus of the lower floor starts at the geological history of the region and continues through until the medieval period, after which the focus shifts to a taxidermy-based display which thematically groups the animals by environment. The displays on this floor are a mine of interesting facts about the region’s development, particularly given the invasions by the Picts, Scots, Vikings and the pervasive influence of the Roman Empire. Even more impressive is the use of the two outward looking windows. For example, the one pointing west looks out at “Craig Phadrig” in the distance, and a slanted panel underneath explains its significance as the likely site of regal fortresses in the Dark Ages, as well as a potential visiting destination of St Columba.  


The upper floor picks up the thread of the city’s history, as well as being the home of the building’s two art gallery spaces. I didn’t enjoy this floor quite as much on the basis that the history I was looking forward to the most – Inverness during the Jacobean era – was not afforded much gallery space, although the subject of Bonnie Prince Charlie and his links to the region were suitably addressed. Beyond this, thematic displays were interlinked with the chronology of the region’s history, and whilst there are a number of impressive artefacts on display, particularly regarding the musical instruments that were common to the region, the gallery sections did not hold my interest in the same way the ones downstairs had. The fact that there was an out of order database and an exposed extension plug was powering the one other interactive that was present also tempered the visitor experience for me.


Finishing my notes, I walked back down the museum’s stairs, past the wall panels which acted as a Gaelic alphabet for local flora and faunae. After collecting my rucksack and thanking the attendants, I headed onwards to Inverness bus station for the next leg of my Scottish holiday. Reflecting as I walked, I tried to formulate some last memories of Inverness and whether the museum had stood out amongst them. Could I recommend a visit to Inverness solely on the back of one museum? Or is it unfair to lump the expectation of an entire city break on the basis of a single site?

Inverness is a beautiful city. My 5k run was largely around the riverside to the south of the main city, with the weather holding up nicely and a number of trees lining the route which had yet to be ravaged by the autumn. The surrounding countryside is quite stunning as well for that matter. Regardless of the distance, it was well worth the visit (on both occasions). The museum taught me a fair bit about the city, and whatever issues I had with the second floor, is an interesting place to visit. It wouldn’t be fair for me, wearing my museum hat, to burden it as the sole reason to visit Inverness because, ultimately, that was not the reason I planned my trip to the Highlands.


At any geographic extremity, it is going to be harder to attract the passing interests of tourists in terms of short breaks. Personally, it is much easier for me to get to Edinburgh or, at a push, Glasgow from Newcastle than it is Aberdeen or the Orkneys, and even then, that’s still a journey of 100+ miles to get to the Scottish capitol from Tyne & Wear. Of course, Inverness is somewhat helped by the tourist-trap aspect of Loch Ness and its various monster tie-ins, but its appeal to me was that it was so far away. Now that I’ve been there, I’m happy to say that I would go back.

Whether or not I’d drive there is another matter...

2015 Resolution!

Hello all!

Once again, I've let things that are not blog-related get on top of me and my output has been as occasional as it ever it was. Worse still, because of my backlog in writing up my journal, I'm unlikely to be going on any new museum adventures for a few months.

But I am going to attempt to turn that negative into a positive.

It was my intention last year to write about the places I had visited in April-May, rather than simply transcribe my journal entries. That is still my intent, but as I have yet to reach that point, I thought I would do this for evey journal entry I complete. And this week I finally finished writing up Inverness Museum and Art Gallery (#185). So, I have now written an account of my visit and a surrounding theme about it. This entry will be posted later today (in honour of Burns' Night!)

And this will continue. Once I write up West Highland Museum (#186), an article will follow on this very blog. Same with #187, #188 and so on until I finally get caught up!

I don't like making empty promises, so with any luck, this should kickstart Museum Walker back to where it was intended to be and get me back on track. My law studies still aren't over (if anything they are set to increase this year), but I want to get back on top of everything so that I can hit Site #200 later this year. Wherever that might be!

Thanks for reading,

Ian

Thursday, 5 June 2014

The Late Shows 2014

I have now had a few weeks to calm down about The Late Shows 2014. My Twitter feed (@MuseumWalkerIan) was pretty busy over the course of the two nights, but this blog affords me the chance to say a little more than 140 characters at a time! So let’s start at the very beginning because, after all, it’s a very good place to start.

After downing tools on Friday evening, I walked from the Haymarket through to Shieldfield. The Biscuit Tin Studios were not a listed venue this year, so I kicked off my own personal experience of the year’s event at Holy Biscuit. Even before entering the converted church building, there were drop in activities upon its front lawn in the form of two sets of four chalkboards, all hinged together to form columns which ask visitors to chalk up an item on their bucket lists. Can’t conjure up that image? Well, a picture is worth a thousand words:

   
Inside the building itself, the art exhibitions were based around alternative representations of Newcastle, through photography, comic book imagery, montages and even a faux board game based around surviving the city’s nightlife. It was all very inventive, and the paper gift-bag with promotional flyers and other assorted goodies proved useful as I collected further bumph throughout the evening. It was also where I picked up my first glowstick of the evening! I try not to hoard them, given their popularity, but I always manage to end up with 2 or 3, pretty much by simply not paying attention to what I’m doing!

I couldn’t visit Holy Biscuit without stopping by The Biscuit Factory along the way. If I were a rich man (durdle-durdle-durdle etc), then I would certainly furnish whatever lavish Geordie residence I subsequently bought with at least something from the Factory, as I always see something that I like on display. I also withheld some glee at the descent into the lower quarters were the artist studios were, not least because of the potential for free wine. A single glass of rosé later – I had to pace my evening after all – and I had circled the various workshops, ranging from a pungent oil painting room to a photography project which I somehow didn’t realise was going on. I learned later from a friend’s Facebook that it was. D’oh.

Over the railway bridge, I noticed from my Late Shows brochure that there was a new venue to visit before passing The Tanner’s Arms and heading down the Stepney Bank - St Dominic’s Priory. As I’m not a Catholic, I haven’t had a reason to visit St Dominic’s before, but the Late Shows gave me that reason. In I walked, greeted by both the sound of soft organ music and two sets of volunteers. As well as the expected volunteers wearing Late Shows-branded black t-shirts, there were also members of the congregation on hand to go over the programme for the evening’s events. So I had a sit down and enjoyed the ambience for a few minutes before scoping out a local school’s art exhibition, which was displayed down one side of the church. I was also approached by the priest who sounded delighted that their bid to be a Late Shows venue had been accepted and this was subsequently the first time St Dominic’s had participated in the event. This left me thinking about how, and why, there were subtle differences in the venue line-up year upon year, which had genuinely never crossed my mind before.

This would be reinforced as I started down Stepney Bank: Roots & Wings were missing. Oh, they hadn’t done the Enchanted Door routine since 2011, but the group had always had a presence within the Ouseburn for the two subsequent years. At least this year there was sign explaining that their premises were being refurbished, keeping visitors in the loop. Metaphorically shrugging, I continued down into valley and headed towards Northern Print. And as I turned a corner and headed towards the door, I found myself looking at a familiar face from my days at The (Renaissance North East Museums) Hub.

Anita had opposite me for the majority of my time at The Hub Learning Team’s office within Segedunum (#45 in my Index). She had also been massively pregnant, and her maternity leave coincided with the end of my fixed term contract there. I had seen her and baby son since then when going back to visit the team, but as the team started to drop in numbers, and my visits came to an end, Friday evening must have been the first time I had seen Anita in about 3 years. And I had to do a double-take when I spotted her, for the sole reason that she was now in a wheelchair. But we had a very upbeat conversation, catching up upon what the other was doing. I recommended St Dominic’s before wishing her and her companion (whose name escapes me – that’s the pitfall of leaving this write up a few weeks, I guess) all the best, and turning back to the printworks.

This year provided me a genuinely new experience: visiting Northern Print when it wasn’t rammed with visitors. I remarked as much to the Late Shows volunteers there, before considering it fortunate timing and proceeding through the building without a queue ahead of me. Initially, I had gone in knowing what to expect; after all, how do you change up what can be exhibited within a workshop filled with large printing machines? The answer came from the volunteer at the bottom of the stairs, who noted that the disabled toilet had been converted into The Cistern Chapel by the satirical artists Modern Toss, featuring a series of comedic prints utilising obscene language. Particularly funny was “The Periodic Table of Swearing”, which I believe can be bought from their website. And it’s my birthday next week....

A hearty chuckle later, I descended into the Ouseburn proper, where I soon caught sight of The Time Bandits; again, regaling the patrons of both The Cluny and The Ship Inn with their Jack the Ripper show. Sidestepping them, I moved towards Ouseburn Farm, whose catering sorted me out for my evening’s sustenance. I just hope the burgers weren’t produced on-site.

Passing through the denizens sitting outside The Cluny, I then turned into 36 Lime Street Studios and explored its many floors for art, again enjoying my climb to Jim Edwards’ studio at the very top of the building. Next door at Seven Stories (#144), after briefly being confused by two volunteers addressing me at once, leading to a moment of weirdness between all three parties, I quickly headed to the stairs and descended to the Creation Station on the bottom floor. Here, I saw children being guided through colouring activities by staff dressed up as literary characters. This would be the theme throughout the seven floors, as literary characters milled about the frankly stunning exhibitions this year: Moving Stories: Children's Books from Page to Screen in particular stretched across two storeys. The uniqueness of the venue also allowed for the Artist’s Attic to put on shows for its audience, as can be seen here:



Once I had had my fill of children’s literature, I headed south down Lime Street towards the Tyne. There were two further venues I would not be able to experience as I passed. The first was Ouse Street Art Club, whose mobile of alcohol, videogames and table tennis was nowhere to be seen. The other was Victoria Tunnel, the famed tunnel that leads from the Ouseburn to deep beneath the Great North Museum: Hancock in the Haymarket. Obviously, that hadn’t gone anywhere, but the Tunnel operates on a tour basis and visitors who want to experience it have to book in advance. I never do and therefore have never got to experience it. And tunnels do count in my Index, as evidenced by my trip to The Tar Tunnel (#155) in Ironbridge Gorge. At the end of Lime Street, I came to a dilemma: I can never remember the best way to get to The Toffee Factory from that spot. Usually because the upper floors that are adjacent to the road bridge over the Ouseburn canal are usually blocked off by security. This year I decided to get there by walking by the canal path....only to find it fenced off for further construction work. Another year of dashed experimentation!

Eventually getting there by circling the Tyne Bar, The Toffee Factory had a swing theme with costumes, cocktails and...dance lessons. A mixture of fun and awkwardness, I formed part of the crowd and drank in the atmosphere rather than the cocktails. Whilst there, I saw Lauren, who had previously co-ordinated volunteers back when I had been one in 2011, so we briefly compared notes for the evening before I let her get back to her friends, who had no idea who I was! I have yet to reach the height of fame where people point at me in the street and shout “Hey, it’s that guy! That guy who sometimes goes to museums and writes about them even less!”

Getting to the River Tyne itself, I noticed that, discounting Victoria Tunnel, I had hit pretty much every Ouseburn venue, save for three places. Three places I had never been to before, for that matter. With that in mind, and it being 9:30pm, I decided I would seek to correct that. Now, the unlucky part of this mystery trinity which did not receive my patronage was Wychcraft Furniture, as a) the brochure did not make it sound very engaging, and b) it was further up the valley and would mean re-tracing my steps. So I proceeded the short distance along the Tyneand made my first ever visit to The Cycle Hub. I could speak about its engaging design competition (posters for the Tour de France stages in Yorkshire which visitors were encouraged to vote on), or the uniqueness of the venue itself. But moreover, it provides some stunning views of the Tyne:


 
The remaining venue, which was providing quite the Twitter buzz, was the Mushroom Works, another artist studio. The only downside was its location, which is not so much a glib dismissal of Byker (which I’m sure has its charms [now, that’s a glib dismissal!]) as a comment on being a 5-10 minute walk away along the river. Most people were sensible and made use of the free shuttle bus. I was not so sensible and opted to make that journey on shanks’ mare instead. Upon reaching Mushroom Works, I had a look around and liked what I saw, with the fairy theme proving very popular. There was the option of a drink for the road, but as I would be walking home to Heaton, I opted to forgo it and begin my trek home.

After an exceedingly good night’s sleep (all that walking paying off, not least those stairs at 36 Lime Street), I had a leisurely Saturday by all accounts. It was only around 4pm I noticed a line on the front of the brochure. Whilst Newcastle and the Ouseburn would be opening their doors at 7pm as per usual, Gateshead would be getting the jump on them by opening up at 6pm. Not only that, they’d also be offering special orange glowsticks! That appealed to me more than it should do a sane man and I immediately started preparing my dinner. I had resolved to walk the event again and it would take me 45 minutes to get from my house to the BALTIC. Moreover, it was a great excuse for me to start the evening in Gateshead as I had continually overlooked it over the past few years for reasons of proximity. Indeed, I doubt I will ever take in the Shipley Art Gallery for future Late Shows, given how far away it is. Unless I take a bus, I guess. Anyway, Saturday.....

The BALTIC has become one of the iconic images of the Quayside, and I do like to stop in whenever I find myself down by the Tyne, even though I can’t technically add it to the journals. After collecting my orange glowstick, I took the lift up to the highest exhibition floor and worked my way down, after a cursory glance from the viewing platform. The main floors were playing host to the work of New York artist Lorna Simpson, which closes on 22 June. The exhibition mixed photography, drawing and videos, which ranged from gold-clad dancers to mirror image chess and a man being looped whilst whistling, so it’s fair to say that it was diverse. There were other exhibitions as well, such as the Near Here contemporary sculpture display from Swedish artist Nina Canell, but they didn’t resonate with me quite as much. So once I had had my fill, I moved on and up the bank to the BALTIC’s equally photogenic neighbour The Sage. It was too early in the evening for the featured entertainment to have started, so instead of watching jazz ensemble ‘Dropping Bombs’ perform requested tracks, I watched their sound check instead whilst planning the rest of my route around Gateshead. And that didn’t sound bad!
 

St Mary’s Heritage Centre was a genuine shock, on the basis that I had never heard of it before. This could easily have been in Journal #2 (“The Sunny Book”) if I had come across it before, but every time I have walked past it en route to the Sage, I must have thought I was simply walking past a very well-placed church! Based within a church building, large spaces had been set aside for the drop-in visitor activities, which had a Hollywood movie feel. For fans of Ghost, there was a potter’s wheel in the upper area near the main entrance, whilst the central space had a number of visitors cutting up magazines in the name of arts & crafts. I had one eye on the standing display boards and how they chronicled the history of Gateshead, but I quickly reminded myself that this would have to be added to the journals at a later date. Yet again, The Late Shows had unearthed another cultural hidden gem. Or at the very least, spelt out that the wood I couldn’t see for the trees did actually exist.

That would turn out to be the high point of my time in Gateshead. After somehow negotiating the major roads of Gateshead to get to the edges of the town, the nearest attraction were shows being put on by the Lawnmowers Theatre Company. Unfortunately these shows were  starting on the hour every hour and I had arrived at 7:30pm. Cursing my timing, I headed next door to the Old Town Hall. This was also show-based, not least with the Time Bandits prowling about, but I had managed to miss these as well! I had the option of going downstairs and looking into the studios of the East Street Arts collective, but everyone else had had the same idea in the lull between shows. I had a rough schedule to stick to, so I exited and headed for the Railway Bridge to get back into Newcastle. There are more famous bridges over the Tyne, but a) the Railway Bridge was more direct for the route I was taking, and b) has the unusual custom of couples leaving personalised padlocks along certain railings as a symbol of their relationships.

Stepping off the bridge, I was now back opposite The Castle Keep (#104), which was clearly quite popular given the lines of people waiting to get into the building stopping only to let a separate line of people to come out of the keep. No Time Bandits here – in the Great Hall was a musical quartet with two ladies in their autumnal years singing “California Dreaming” in full acapella. I didn’t linger. Excitingly, the keep’s neighbour - The Black Gate - which opens to the public later this year, was using The Late Shows as a preview event. Like the Lawnmowers Theatre Company, visitors were being let in on the hour, and as luck would have it, it was now 8pm. However, the First Come, First Served rule would be my undoing here and the queue for the tour was pretty substantial. Still, patience is a virtue and I need only wait a month or two more before I can assess The Black Gate for myself in my own time. And that’s pretty exciting!

Continuing on my route, I headed for Westgate Road, as that would eventually lead me up to Discovery Museum, via a few other notable sites. As it happened, the Literary & Philosophical Society was not a Late Shows venue this year, but its neighbour The Mining Institute did not disappoint. Not only was it opening up more rooms than ever before, it was also playing host to local circus outreach troupe “Let’s Circus”. In that my evening had been somewhat whistlestop so far, I allowed myself a fair chunk of time enjoying the surreal nature of watching performers make use of such a venue to perform their revue acts. The majestic main hall was used for aerial rope dancing (see below), whilst the grand lecture theatre was used for the one-woman act “The Good Wife”, whilst the framed images of former Institute dignitaries had been modestly vandalised with clown stickers!



Onwards, I headed west and stopped into Newcastle Arts Centre. As well as having a look around its main gallery space, I headed up to the mezzanine. Sophie Foster, the artist whose NEST project had been on display at Ouseburn Farm the previous year, was delivering drop-in activity sessions involving “tangrams” – Google it. Opting not to cut out shapes and play with glue alongside children, for self-esteem reasons, I instead played about with the larger pre-cut shapes on a separate table and took a picture for posterity.

After a chat with Sophie, having not met her before, I pressed on towards Discovery. But before I entered TWAM Central, I stopped by the Globe Gallery. Here, the main exhibition I saw was based upon artist Ken Byers and his impressions of the Swan Hunter’s cranes, which were previously dotted alongside the Tyne at Wallsend. Said impressions were not just charcoal renderings hung on the wall, but the gallery’s basement featured a motion-sensor projection which looked at the crane based artwork.

Hopping across to Discovery Museum (#98), I saw Anita once more, stationed beside the main desk near the entrance. After sharing a laugh at the bus-like nature of our recent reunions (twice in two days after no contact for years), I made my way up to the Great Hall to scope out the theme of this years display. Once again, much like my first experience of The Late Shows in 2010, it was giant game-based, although this year’s iteration had inflatable based cages and games, not unlike something they’d use on CBBC shows of my era, such as 50:50 or Get Your Own Back. Moreover, I saw someone who I very much associated with Giant Games – my former colleague Claudia, who had been the Family Learning Officer at the Hub. My favourite memory of Claudia was that she had made sure that everyone who came into the Hub, for however long they were associated with the team, attempted to learn how to juggle! As I had done with Anita the previous night, I swapped notes with Claudia and found out what she had been up to, before talking about how my museum project was going; the Hub were responsible for me seeing a good few museums and heritage sites for the 14 weeks I was with them.

Before leaving, I made sure I headed to A Soldier’s Life and took this picture for my friend Dan (the story as to why was in my previous blog post):

 
As I left Discovery, the clock was striking 10pm.  Unless you heading to World Headquarters to party well into the night, the cultural venues would finally be shutting their doors at 11pm. In that I had walked from Heaton to the Gallowgate via Gateshead, clubbing was not even a consideration. I simply wanted to finish up at GNM Hancock before the night was over. So, earbuds in, I started making my way up to the Haymarket. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t feel a tad self-conscious as I walked up Percy St, as I was taking a shortcut past a number of well-patronised boozers, whose punters were unlikely to have seen many people walk past wearing a glowstick around their neck. Moreover, I was feeling quite tired. I had not indulged in any drinks over the course of the evening, and whilst alcohol would have hardly helped my energy levels, I hadn’t even indulged in a cup of tea either.

So it was not the Museum Formerly Known as the Hancock that I made a beeline too. Instead, I stopped by its sister site GNM: Hatton, as I had been tipped off on Twitter about its free juice bar. The museum was somewhat quiet in terms of numbers given the time of night, but there was a party atmosphere near the juice bar, as music was playing through a large speaker set. After casting my eye over the many plastic juice cartons, I picked up the Raspberry flavoured drink, jabbed the pointed straw through the plastic lid and drank in those sweet, sweet e-numbers! After a sit-down within the adjacent gallery, I had a brief wander and found a learning officer sat amongst now empty activity tables. I declined her offer to have a go at whatever it happened to be – at that moment, I just wanted to get over the finish line. And have another Raspberry juice. Armed with a second carton, I found myself particularly engaged with the photography exhibition based around Marilyn Monroe. Yes, she was a very photogenic woman, but I found the labels and panels to be just as interesting as they told stories about particular aspects about her life.

With half an hour left, I made it to GNM: Hancock (#102), arriving just after TWAM head honcho Iain Watson had entered. The newly  refurbished museum had opened its doors just prior to me starting my MA course, so I was no stranger to the museum. In fact, if the mood takes me, I sometimes toddle across there on my lunch break as I work just over the road from there. But the one thing I was determined to see was the touring V&A Museum of Childhood exhibition Magic Worlds, which is on until 22 June. The temporary exhibition space was transformed into a variety of linked spaces, taking in various thematic elements of children’s stories, be it in literature or on screen. Case in point, a personal highlight was seeing video footage of Sooty & Sweep, even if it was with the current bloke rather than Matthew Corbett.




Once I had encountered the Magic World, I took a stage exit left and vamoosed, making one final walk back to Heaton. As I walked home, I counted the number of places I had stopped by over the two nights: 21. Out of 50 venues, I’d managed 10 in the Ouseburn and another 11 that night. Could I have seen more? Theoretically, it must be possible, but the trade-off would be that by experiencing everything, you would simultaneously have no time to really experience anything when there. I spent a lot of time in the Mining Institute and probably spent more time than most at Newcastle Arts Centre through taking part in an activity, but I’m so glad that I did take the time, after having breezed through Gateshead as quickly as I had.

In fact, Gateshead was probably the only down note of the weekend. The concept of starting earlier and having unique glowsticks was a great selling point for me, but The Sage didn’t seem ready for an early event and the fact that the attractions at the two central Gateshead venues were not drop-in in nature, relied on good timing on the visitors’ part. If I were to put my finger on what I think is the central appeal of The Late Shows, it’s the accessibility aspect of the event. The idea that someone can just walk into a place they wouldn’t normally visit, at an hour which they wouldn’t normally visit said place, and get caught up in what’s going on. I understand why certain events need to be staggered – shows need time to build an audience, tours need to account for the number of people involved, and so on – but I think the best attractions are those that cater to the visitor at their own pace.

I think I’ve typed all I can possibly type about The Late Shows at this point! It’s an event I’m very passionate about supporting and I think it’s a credit to the organisers, the participating venues and, most of all, those who volunteer their time to make it such a success. Moreover, it’s a great showcase of Tyneside at its best, which you can’t always say about Newcastle on Friday and Saturday nights, especially around the Bigg Market. So if you have never been to Newcastle before, or for a long time, and would like to see its cultural side at its best, I’d recommend you pencil in a weekend in May 2015! Barring a massive shift in the status quo, I know that’s where I’ll be!

Tuesday, 20 May 2014

Blog posts on the horizon!

Hello all!

Rather than let this small corner of the internet sit unloved and dusty, I have resolved to give blogging another go.

My previous plan - of just using this platform to digitise my journal entries - was too difficult given that I have so many demands on my time and transcribing old entries is somehow more difficult than sitting down and tapping away on the keyboard. I'd hope I'd be able to pepper the new content with these entries every now and again, but ultimately, this blog would not be feasible if I were going to stick to my original mission statement.

So, the plan is to update the blog weekly at the very least for the next eight/8* entries. This week, I have posted my memories of The Late Shows 2010-13, and the follow up blog post will be on this year's Late Shows, which passed this previous weekend. After that, I want to write about the last 7 places that I have added to my journal index, which were the seven places I visited on my recent holiday. These are, in order:

190) Sudbury Hall and the National Trust Museum of Childhood, Sudbury
191) Fort Nelson, Fareham
192) Andover Museum and Museum of the Iron Age, Andover
193) Hughenden Manor, High Wycombe
194) Snibston Discovery Museum, Coalville
195) Nostell Priory, Nostell
196) The Workhouse, Southwell

After that, I want to interact with people who read this blog. So what I thought I'd do is get any commenter's choice of venue from the places I have been to, and write about it. Either pick a number at random, or go through the list alongside my Google Map and pick out the museum, heritage site or visitor attraction you want to read about. Once I have the number, I will write up my anecdotal memories of the place - at what pace, I'm not sure, but we'll see how the experiment goes!

All comments and advice welcome!

Ian


*I never know what is the better way to write a number, which is why I tend to switch it up between the digit and the number's spelling. You'll see that a sentence or two along when I do that with the number 7 - and in this sentence as well! Apologies in advance if that's a punctuation no-no which is going to annoy you.

Monday, 19 May 2014

The Late Shows pre-2014

I can credit two events for revitalising my commitment – such as it is – to this blog. The first was my recent domestic holiday, which I started a month ago. I added 7 new museums and heritage sites to the index for my journals, despite the pre-existing backlog, and I want to blog about all 7 very, very soon. The second event happened just this past weekend: The Late Shows.

Come September, I will have lived in Newcastle for 5 years. I moved up here to pursue museums as a career, and whilst fate has played out slightly differently, nothing reconnects me more to that original purpose than this weekend in May, as part of the wider national Museums at Night event. And what a wonderful idea – opening up a cultural venue after hours and enticing people in with special events. If, like me, you work regular weekday hours, your museum-visiting time is curtailed to holidays, weekends and, if there’s one nearby, maybe lunch breaks. There are a whole range of impracticalities relating to opening up cultural venues in the evenings all year round, but for one weekend a year, people have the opportunity to drop in and see what their local museums have on show.

The dust has yet to settle on the 2014 Late Shows, so whilst I gather my thoughts on this year’s offering, I thought I’d write a prelude about my past experiences with the event, and how they opened my eyes to what was truly around me on Tyneside.

My first exposure to The Late Shows was in 2010, whilst I was still sitting my MA Heritage Education and Interpretation course at Newcastle University. That weekend in particular saw me hosting my friend Dan, who was my former housemate from our undergraduate days at Lancaster University. He had driven up from Lancashire, and, as I did not have a set of wheels of my own, we decided to spend the most part of Saturday at Beamish Open Air Museum, which is not the easiest place to get to via public transport. We had lovely weather for our visit, which would take the whole day as I had to document as much as I possibly could for my journal (Beamish is #119 in my index).
 
 
Returning to my student house in Heaton, we changed and hit the Toon for a few drinks. I had not forgotten that The Late Shows were going on. At that time, I was in the placement module stage of my course, with my placement being within the Renaissance North East Hub Learning team, or “The Hub” for short. My colleagues within the Hub were all gearing up for the events which would be happening within the flagship Tyne & Wear Archives & Museums (TWAM) venues within Newcastle, principally the Great North Museum: Hancock (index #102) and their base of operations, Discovery Museum (#98). I wasn’t required to assist on the night, but I said I’d try and stop by, not realising the scope of what they were involved in.

So Dan and I went out, had some food, had some beers and generally caught up with one another. I talked about my second coming as a student and what Newcastle was like to live in. Dan talked about his life as a policeman, which I find endlessly fascinating. A few lagers later, I suggested we head across to Discovery Museum, to see if any of my colleagues at the Hub where there. And they were...along with half of city’s populace! Now, Discovery is a large museum, and the Great Hall on the fourth floor, where the events were being held, is a massive room which can hold a number of visitors, but I was surprised to see quite how many people were milling about. I had previously visited Discovery a handful of times: once for writing up in my journal, the other times in relation to my MA course. But I had no idea that a single event like The Late Shows could attract so many people.

The two of us had walked the entirety of Beamish earlier in the day and were now slightly inebriated. Nevertheless, I showed Dan around as much of Discovery Museum as I thought he would enjoy. Again, it is a large museum, so there was plenty to see: not least The Newcastle Story (a gallery in which visitors walk through the various eras of the city’s history), the Tyneside Challenge gallery which focuses upon local innovations, or the hands-on interactive minefield that is The Science Maze. But it was The Soldier’s Life – Discovery’s military history gallery – which caught Dan’s imagination the most. And I’m not sure it was for the content so much as it was for the special features...





 
Aside from a merry copper riding a rocking horse within a museum at night, the highlight of the evening was what was actually within the Great Hall – the advertised event that was drawing people into Discovery Museum: Giant Games! That is to say, traditional games that have been recreated to a much larger scale, from Connect 4 and Chess boards to a large Scalextric race track and a large button-bashing reaction test. All in all, it was a terrifically fun night and the memory has stayed with Dan to this day. Well, the rocking horse has at least....

Fast forward a year, I wanted to be more involved in The Late Shows. At the time, I was a freelance Heritage and ICT Facilitator on the side, whilst living off of an admin job at a law firm. It did not look like I would be staying in Newcastle for the long term, so at the time, I wanted to contribute whilst I still had the opportunity. After all, I had only ended up going to a single venue the year before.

An opportunity presented itself through my contacts. TWAM were overseeing a volunteering scheme to get young people involved in documenting The Late Shows for all those volunteers that were 18-25. The Late Shows 2011 were happening the month before I turned 26, so, eligible as I was, I signed up. The plan was to go around as many venues as possible, taking pictures and recording footage (audio and video) to get as complete a picture of the events as possible. The technical side was being directly overseen by Rob McIver, whom I had worked with closely during my time at The Hub, so he knew what I could do. However, I only committed myself to this project for one of the two nights, as I wanted the chance to volunteer at a single venue for a full night.

For those of you who haven’t had the chance to experience The Late Shows, they run over the course of the Friday and Saturday night of the allotted weekend. The cultural venues of Newcastle and Gateshead collectively open their doors on the Saturday evening, but the Ouseburn district of the city – which sits between Shieldfield, Manors and Byker – opens up its doors on Friday evening as well. Nestled beneath tall bridges for road, rail and Metro transport links, the Ouseburn boasts an urban farm, a stables, some fantastic pubs, the Cluny live music venue, artist studios and Seven Stories (#144) the National Children’s Centre for Literature, whilst further down the valley on the mouth of the Tyne is The Toffee Factory artistic complex, The Cycle Hub centre – a one stop haven for the cycling enthusiast – and some more pubs.

So for 2011, I committed myself to help capture the mood of the Ouseburn on the Friday night, whilst I would be one of the two volunteers stationed at Newcastle’s Castle Keep (#104) on the Saturday night. Not only would it be another string to my museum-based volunteering bow, but I’d also receive a free, and very fetching, Late Shows-branded hoody:


 ...the large size, clearly. So after work, I headed from the Haymarket down to Seven Stories, where I met up with Rob and my fellow members of the “Documenting Team”. I had been to Seven Stories once before with the Hub, but had yet to add it to my journals – that would happen a month later when my parents came up to visit. Literally seven floors tall, it’s an unsung gem of a place which champions the best of children’s literature through engaging displays, with plenty to occupy young visitors. I make a point to visit every year during The Late Shows, although that’s partially because it’s free to enter during those evenings and I’m a cheapskate! Be that as it may, it’s another reason for parents to take advantage of the event and check out a venue they might otherwise not visit.


After starting our documenting at Seven Stories, we moved on to other parts of the Ouseburn. We were not the only group milling around, as The Late Shows is not solely restricted to venues and buildings. The troupe of players known as the Time Bandits were on hand to give open-air performances of their Jack the Ripper show, with the occasional scream distracting the bemused denizens of The Cluny, who were sitting outside and watching on whilst cradling their plastic pint glasses. After getting some video footage from the actors – in character, naturally – we moved up the Stepney Bank road, which leads up to the west side of the valley. The route takes you past Northern Print, a perennially popular Late Shows destination by virtue of the fact that it gets VERY busy! But then, who doesn’t enjoy the spirit of Caxton?


But my personal highlight of that night was the contribution of the artistic collective Roots and Wings. Their contribution was a treasure hunt around the Ouseburn, which started at the “Enchanted” door of their building on Stepney Bank. We spotted the queue leading to the door before we saw the door itself. A set of instructions were posted nearby, imploring visitors to knock on the door and state the password: “Roots & Wings”. We set up our video camera and watched as a family group walked up to the door, behind which some ethereal music was playing, and knocked. An amplified, hoarse-sounding voice boomed out from the other side of the door, asking for the password. The children shouted back “ROOTS AND WINGS!” From there, the hoarse voice gave way to the loud chords of ‘O Fortuna’ as dry ice flushed through the letterbox, along with a special envelope for the children. As it appeared the voice boomed out its commandments “TAKE THE ENVELOPE AND FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS!!” I’ve managed to unearth one of the videos we compiled, which illustrates the visuals, if not the booming voice, about 54 seconds into the clip. Heck, even when taking a 10 minute break to make up further envelopes (such was the demand), the booming voice decided to tell cheese-related jokes over the ethereal music to keep the queue entertained. Such as:

WHAT KIND OF CHEESE DO YOU USE TO HIDE A SMALL HORSE? MASCARPONE!

WHAT KIND OF CHEESE DOESN’T BELONG TO YOU? NACHO CHEESE!

WHAT KIND OF CHEESE DO YOU USE TO COAX A BEAR OUT OF A TREE? CAMMEMBERT (COME OUT OF THAT TREE!)

Maybe they don’t work as well written down, but I re-enacted them to my sister a few months later whilst in a car and she nearly swerved off of the road with mirth!!

After interviewing those who had received envelopes to get an insight into the nature of the clues, we headed back down the hill, stopping by the 36 Lime Street Studios before calling it a night. For my compadres, they would be doing the same thing all over again the following night, whereas I would be abandoning them to spend my Saturday evening in a bloody great castle!

Again, I think to describe The Castle Keep is best left for another day, so instead I will talk about the experience of volunteering there. Worthy as it was, I could not help but think, as I stood alongside my fellow volunteer, whose name I’ve sadly forgotten, that I had made a mistake. In the brief downtime I had that night, due to the slow queuing on the stairs guaranteeing that it was largely chock-a-block throughout the night, I was the one stringing the trademark Late Shows glowsticks. Yes, the beloved glowsticks! Join The Late Shows bandwagon too late, and you run the risk of not getting one at all, whilst certain sly beggars can go around the place hoarding a substantial amount! But they do lose a certain amount of lustre when a) they haven’t been cracked into translucent life, and b) you’re handing them out to other people.

And when you’re stood in the same place for hours on end, it’s almost a given that some of the people filing in will be people you know or recognise. I shared a few words with my university friends as they greeted me, asking them where they had been and what they had seen. Yes, I had wanted to volunteer, but now that I was volunteering, I was green with envy. I felt like I was missing out. I *was* missing out, however noble it is to volunteer (and it is noble). And after shutting the large wooden doors to the punters at 11pm, I waited for my complimentary taxi ride home, feeling weary and fairly down for denying myself a night of new sights and discoveries. Even though the Time Bandits had shown up at the Keep halfway through the night to perform for the visitors, I didn’t feel like I had experienced much from within those thick medieval walls.

A month or so later, an event was held by TWAM to thank the volunteers for their efforts over The Late Shows. It was being held at Tyneside Cinema, the Newcastle’s premier independent cinema, because some of the video footage that we had shot and edited together would be projected on to the big screen, whilst there would also be a free buffet, goody bags – the reason why I’m the proud owner of a TWAM-branded mug – and also a free screening of ‘Ferris Bueller’s Day Off’. I give it 3 stars out of 5: I found the central character to be largely unsympathetic, which hampered the film’s narrative flow. Still, funny in places and Principal Rooney was fun.

Come 2012, in which I now had a full time job, and an MA to pay off, I put away notions of using The Late Shows to impress old friends or to make a contribution. That year, I wanted to see the vast scope of The Late Shows as a regular punter, taking in what was on display as someone whose direct connection to the museum world was steadily loosening. 2011 had taught me the structure of how to approach The Late Shows: namely, devote your Friday night to the Ouseburn, then prioritise what you want to do in Newcastle/Gateshead on the Saturday. And it was literally what I wanted to do as well – I wasn’t taking anyone with me. This was my own selfish treat to finally see what my adopted city had to teach me.

In truth, I don’t have much in the way of the anecdotes for this year. I didn’t take any pictures on either night, I tweeted once at the end of each night to say how much I had enjoyed the event, and travelling alone has the distinct disadvantage of lesser chances of memorable incidents. Which isn’t a bad thing when I’m doing my museum tour, but the bonhomie of visiting such places at night whilst weaving through people having a traditional night out, almost lends itself to visiting in pairs/groups.

My plan was that I started at GNM: Hancock and worked my way down towards the Tyne, looking to cross over to Gateshead. I didn’t get nearly that far – I called it a night after re-visiting the Castle Keep to mentally compare the visitor numbers with those of the previous year. But en route, I managed to visit places that I had never seen before. The particular highlights were two institutions that happen to live next door to one another: The Literary & Philosophical Society and The Mining Institute. The former with its magnificent library, and the latter’s fantastic hall and lecture theatre; both sites were real eye-openers, particularly given the countless times I had walked past their buildings without any idea of what they held. That is what The Late Shows can do – change your perception of the city you live in. For a community which is seeing the remnants of its industrial past being dismantled and packed away for the 21st century, it is important that citizens and tourists alike are exposed to such places to gain a proper insight into Newcastle’s past.

Last year, I followed the ground rules of what I had established in 2012, but decided to change things up subtly in two ways. The first was to set less targets of what to go and see. The second was to tweet about it. Tweet incessantly, and earn that Twitter handle you bestowed upon yourself. So Friday evening came along, and I started at the venue nearest my own house – The Biscuit Tin Studios. Not only was it a building I’d never been to before, but certain artists were giving out complimentary plastic cups of wine! I moved through Shieldfield, via Holy Biscuit: the gallery within a contemporary church building. I then went to the larger sister site of The Biscuit Factory, with more art on display, more artist studios and more wine! After running into my friend Caroline, who had a hand in the running of the Late Shows, I continued on my merrier-than-anticipated way, moving down the Stepney Bank for another busy Northern Print visit and into the central area of the Ouseburn.

I sidled into Ouseburn Farm to check out the sights and smells, whilst an exhibition based upon the nest patterns of birds was on display inside. I gave it a mention on Twitter and the artist subsequently followed me  – the tweeting strategy was working! The route was already becoming familiar to me after 3 years. From the farm, we go past the Cluny. To Seven Stories, to see what might capture the imagination this time around: I tweeted about the fact that I had spent time in front of some ‘Where’s Wally?’ illustrations. Double back to 36 Lime Street for the annual cardiovascular workout of climbing its many floors. Then head out towards The Toffee Factory, stopping by a mobile exhibition space run by the Ouse Street Arts Club, mixing a bar with computer games and table tennis! Finally, upon reaching The Toffee Factory, I experience “The Big M”; an inflated tent with three large screens, showcasing looping imagery to music. All in all, a good evening’s jaunt in culture.

If my tweeting rule proved successful on the Friday, then my free-form jazz approach to where I wandered on the Saturday worked a treat. Starting at the Great North Museum: Hancock, I bounced from there to its sister site (GNM: Hatton) to the Newcastle Central Library, to the Laing Art Gallery across the road. If I thought the beach party vibe of the Central Library was a little offbeat, then the Laing belting out some loud dance tracks was a complete surprise! From there I found myself in the Church of St John listening to cello music in the haze of incense, before walking up the road to Newcastle Arts Centre, which was hosting live African music. Further west I headed, to the Globe Gallery, where I was invited to hang a personalised tube from the ceiling, and to its larger neighbour of the Discovery Museum, where the theme was similar insofar that messages relating to individual identity were being collated and would be hung by a massive crane at the end of the night. I stayed for that and then called it a night.
  

So there we have it. Four years experiencing The Late Shows, from starting off with a brief taster for the event, to a budding volunteer, then an interested explorer, and, finally, a ramshackle semi-veteran. This is the basis upon which I get excited for that one weekend in May, for as long as I live in or around Tyneside. This is the event which reminds me how much the North East positively gushes with culture. And through these experiences, I was chomping at the bit for the 2014 Late Shows to arrive. And arrive they did.

But that’s next week’s lengthy entry!